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Scotts Bluff

About 185 miles west of the forks of the Platte River, directly abutting the north fork, stands a massive geologic formation that is part of a range, now called the Wildcat Hills, that stretches south and east of the promontory. Its summit perhaps 750 to 800 feet above terrain, it was called "the hill that is hard to go around" by the Indians resident in the region long before any white man traversed the territory.

The Mountain Men who first used the Platte River Valley as a way of passage to the fur-rich mountains assigned to the site the name of one of their own in 1829. The "honor" was bestowed upon one Hiram Scott, who, with his partner James Bruffe, was employed by the firm of Smith, Jackson & Sublette to take supplies to the Green River Rendezvous in 1828. Scott took ill on the trip to rendezvous and, according to Matthew Field, was virtually helpless by the time they reached the Rendezvous. Bruffe left the Rendezvous before Scott, indicating that he would wait for him at the big bluff on the North Platte River. During the return trip, however, Scott's condition worsened to the point that, near LaBonte Creek, his companions constructed a "bull boat" in which to transport him because he could no longer sit a horse. Unfortunately, the boat was wrecked and all equipment and supplies were lost. Under these circumstances it is not surprising that it took the party nine days to reach the bluffs on the North Platte. The entire party was in dire straits when it finally reached the point at which Bruffe was supposed to be waiting. Since no sign of the partner could be found, Scott's companions made an agonizing decision-they abandoned Scott to his fate. The following summer his remains were found and buried by William Sublette. In the words of Matthew Field, "there lies poor Scott, with a mournful fate and a magnificent monument."

During the years of emigrant travel on the Oregon-California Trail some sought to turn emigrant problems to their own advantage by establishing trading posts along the trail. Military establishments such as Forts Kearny and Laramie were, of course natural locations for such establishments. But others sprang up at points all along the trail. From the earliest years of travel, Scott's Bluff was one of the areas most continuously utilized by traders, first in Roubideaux Pass then in the immediate environs of Mitchell Pass after that way of passage was opened by the military.

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Eugenia Zieber, 1851

Wednesday, July 2nd. 1851. Scot's Bluffs were in view when we started this morning and although they appeared near, we were obliged to travel a long distance before reaching them. They are objects of greater interest than the Ancient Ruins or Chimney Rock. And I think deserve the name of ancient Ruins much more than those that bear it. It was a grand sight. When opposite to them (they are on the other [South] side of the Platte) We saw a storm approaching, following the course of the river. A dark cloud hung over the bluffs, increasing or heightening the grandeur of their appearance to a great degree We gazed upon it in perfect delight, but suddenly the whose scene was envelopes in darkness, completely hid from our view. The wind in a short time changed its course, blowing towards us. Consequently we had our share [p. 195] of the storm, which was tolerably severe Some hail fell, but not sufficient to do any damage to our waggons. Only enough to frighten us a little.

Mariett Foster Cummings, 1852

10th (June) - Passed Bluff Ruins, most beautiful, too. I made a rough draft then I was so charmed that I could not gaze enough. Made our noon halt opposite Scott's Bluff, altogether the most symmetrical in form and the most stupendous in size of any we have yet seen. One of them is close in its resemblance to the dome of the Capitol at Washington. There is a pass through that is guarded on one side by Sugar Loaf Rock, on the other by one that resembles a square house with an observatory. There is one (nearest the river) I will not attempt to describe, certainly the most magnificent thing I ever saw. Away up on the top is a green spot of earth and cedar trees are clinging to its rocky sides and covering its lofty crest.

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Sarah Sutton, 1854

May 30th soon after starting this morn, we left the river, to let the proud Scotts bluffs go between us and the river passt two french traders cabins and 8 indian Lodges tented with them. . .came on to platt river again and passt a traders tent of french an[d] indians. a good looking white man with A black squaw for a bosom companion

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Martha Missouri Moore, 1860

Saturday 30th (June, 1860). . .We are camped tonight in Scotts Bluffs. This is the most beautiful scenery we have been among. The valley surrounded by mountains whose sides & tops are covered with pines and cedars the rippling stream make up a scene enchantingly lovely. I thought if there is peace to be found in the world the heart that was humble might hope for it here. Made 15 miles

Mary Ringo, 1864

July 16, Saturday. We hitch up and travel some 18 miles crossing the Scotts Bluff, this is a bad road but grand scenery. I could have enjoyed it very much but I was so afraid the Indians would attack us but we got over safe and camped at a beautiful place on the river, there is an alkali slough here and some of the cattle drank of it and it killed them. Mr. Hoge loses some of his best oxen.

For additional information on Scott's Bluff, see the following:

Merrill Mattes, The Great Platte River Road, Chapter XIII: "Mr. Scott's Bluffs and Mr. Robidoux's Pass".

Merrill Mattes, "Scott's Bluff, Giant Landmark of the Oregon-California Trails," Overland Journal, Volume 3, Number 3-Summer, 1985.

Robert L. Munkres, "The Sentinels of the North Platte." [With accompanying photographs] The National Tombstone Epitaph, June, 1983.

The information presented about this site has been adapted from Robert L.
Munkres, "Scott's Bluff," English Westerners Tally Sheet, Spring, 1994.

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