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After crossing the Oregon Trail in 1842,
Lansford W. Hastings returned east to blaze his own
trail across the salt desert of what is now Utah in
1846. Hastings authored The Emigrants' Guide to
Oregon and California to promote his new route
which included a 65-mile waterless stretch across the
desert.
The Guide contained some useful
information about preparing for the overland journey but
when it came to describing the trail Hastings proposed,
it was filled with misinformation. The Guide reported 25,000 foot peaks in the Rockies and claimed
that "Wagons can be taken as readily from Fort Hall
to the bay of St. Francisco, as they can, from the
States to Fort Hall; and in fact, the latter part of the
route, is found much more eligible for a wagon
way." Moreover, Hastings claimed that his trail
would cut weeks off of the journey, enabling those who
followed it to reach California three weeks ahead of
those who followed the Fort Hall route. |
Hastings dramatically underestimated
mileages, especially with the Salt Desert crossing.
Virginia Reed recalled, "Hastings said it was 40
[miles] but i think it was 80 miles." In fact,
current measurements suggest it is about 65 miles
between springs. Virginia Reed, of course, had reason
to feel bitterly towards Hastings. She was a member of
the emigrants who suffered most as a result of
Hastings promotion: the Donner-Reed Party.
The Donner-Reed Party had expected
Hastings to meet them at Fort Bridger and guide them
across his new cutoff. But Hastings had already gone
ahead and so the Donner-Reed Party, attempting to
follow his instructions, headed southwest. They were
forced to blaze their own trail through the Wasatch
Mountains down into the Salt Lake Valley, an effort
which required them to spend eighteen days to go a
mere thirty-nine miles. |
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The so-called cutoff had already cost
them precious time, as James Clyman had warned James
Reed when he told him to "take the regular wagon
track and never leave it -- it is barely possible to get
through if you follow it -- and it might be impossible
if you don't."
But Reed wouldn't listen, replying,
"There is a nigher route, and it is of no use to
take so much of a roundabout course." Young
Virginia Reed would echo this sentiment later when she
advised emigrants: "Never take no cutoffs." |
Edwin Bryant, who successfully
followed Hastings Cutoff ahead of the Donner-Reed
Party, remembered the fearful crossing of the Salt
Desert: "As we proceeded the plain gradually
became softer, and our mules sometimes sunk to their
knees in the stiff composition of salt, sand, and
clay. The traveling at length became so difficult and
fatiguing to our animals that several of the party
dismounted...and we consequently slackened our
hitherto brisk pace into a walk."
Pilot Peak stood on the edge of the
Salt Desert, guiding the emigrants across the salt
flats to a spring at its base. |
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But the Salt Desert was not Hastings
only miscalculation. In the Ruby Valley of what is now
Nevada, James Clyman had noted several small streams
which he believed would "no doubt fall into marys
[Humboldt] river." Hastings agreed. But, instead,
the streams disappeared into the sink of present
Franklin Lake, forcing the emigrants to make an arduous
crossing of the Ruby Mountains. Had Hastings scouted the
route to the north, he could have shortened the route by
one hundred miles.
The Hastings Cutoff joined the main
branch of the California Trail near Gravelly Ford from
the south fork of the Humboldt. But, after the Donner-Reed
tragedy, the Hastings Cutoff was forever tainted and it
received little traffic in the ensuing years. |
During the Gold Rush year of
1849, there is some evidence that packers, who
traveled lighter and faster, chose this route over the
more crowded northern routes in an attempt to gain an
advantage. But, in general, the route simply had too
much desert, too little water and too little grass to
be a feasible route west.
Madison
Moorman, Aug. 14, 1850:
We made an early start, without
breakfast, and when we had travelled a mile or two we
entered a very rugged Kanyon of six or seven miles
continuance. We crossed four or five times the, here,
very rapid and deep little river, and sometimes, to
avoid a crossing, we would leave the wagon track and
risk a hazardous bridle way on the steep and rugged
mountain side, from which an awkward step of our sure
footed mules would have hurled us a hundred feet and
launches us in the river foaming the the depths below. |
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Edwin Bryant, 1846:
About two o'clock, P.M., after
travelling three-fourths the distance across the valley,
we struck an oasis of about fifty acres of green grass,
reeds, and other herbage, surrounding a number of
springs, some of cool fresh water, others of warm
sulphur water. These waters rise here, and immediately
sink in the sands ... |
For additional information on the Hastings Cutoff, Lansford Hastings, and the Donner-Reed Party, see the following:
OCTA's Utah Crossroads Website
Rush Spedden, "The Fearful Long Drive," Overland Journal, Vol. 12, No. 2, 1994
Will Bagley, "Lansford Warren Hastings: Scoundrel or Visionary?" Overland Journal, Vol. 12, No. 1, 1994
Kristin Johnson, editor. "Unfortunate Emigrants: Narratives of the Donner Party" (Utah State University Press, 1996)
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