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Ash Hollow State Park, located seventy
to seventy-five miles west of the forks of the Platte,
is the site of the principal entryway to the North
Platte Valley used by emigrants entering from the south
and east. In the 19th century, of course, not all
emigrants came through this site. Quite a number
followed a trail along the north side of the Platte and
North Platte, thus avoiding Ash Hollow altogether. First
followed by the Mountain Men, the north side route came
to be known as the Council Bluffs Road and to many as
The Mormon Trail. A much smaller number also by-passed
the site by crossing the South Platte further west, thus
hitting the North Platte considerably beyond Ash Hollow.
The famous Pony Express, for example, did not turn north
until reaching present-day Julesburg, Colorado,
re-joining the North Platte in the vicinity of Court
House Rock. And a few crossed the South Platte further
east, and came up the south side of the North Platte
River. |
The main trail, however, connected
with the North Platte after crossing the table land
between the two rivers. A very steep hill had to be
traversed to "drop down" into Ash Hollow.
Called "Windlass Hill" (even
though there is no historical evidence that a windlass
was ever used!), the descent into the hollow was
commented upon by most emigrants. Most also noted the
welcome presence of good grass and water. According to
the late Paul Henderson, "The brow of Windlass
hill is 235 feet above the valley floor and the
distance in descending the slope is a little less than
800 feet, rendering a very steep descending
grade." Steep enough to lead a gentleman named
Dougherty to comment "I cannot say at what angle
we descend but it is so great that some go so far as
to say 'the road hangs a little past the
perpendicular!" |
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The site of the Battle of Blue Water, during
which troops under General Harney overran Little
Thunder's camp of Brulé in retaliation for the Grattan
"massacre" east of Fort Laramie the year
before, is located about six miles to the northwest of
Ash Hollow. A short-lived earthen works "fort"
called "Fort Grattan" was briefly located at
this site. |
Keturah Belknap, 1848
We will now go down the noted Ash hollow and strike the Sweet
River, then will rest awhile. We make the trip down the hollow
all safe. Went as far as we could with the teams then took of
some of the best teams and send down so they could move the
wagons out of the way, then they would take one wagon as far
as theyh could with the team, then unhitch and ruff-lock both
hind wheels, then fasten a big rope to the axle of the wagon
and men would hold to that to keep the wagon iron going end
over end; some were at the tongue to steer it and others were
lifting the wheels to ease them down the steps for it was
solid rock steps from six inches to two feet apart so it took
all day but we all got there without accident. We will stay
here all night. I wash a little and cook some more, have a ham
bone and beans. This is good sweet water; we have had alkali
andnithing was good. Just as we were ready to sit down to
supper Joe Meek and his posse of men rode into camp. They were
going to Washington, D.C. to get the government to send
soldiers to protect the settlers in Oregon and they told us
all about the Indian Massacre at Walla Walla called the
"Whitman Massacre."
Margaret A. Frink, 1850
Saturday, June 1. To-day the bluffs came to the river
and cut off our passage along the bank. We had to
climb a long hill to go around. We descended to the
river again through a deep ravine called Ash Hollow,
where Colonel Harney, with a detachment of United
States Regulars, had a severe fight with the Sioux,
several years ago. [Obviously this reference to Harney
was added in later years]
Sunday, June 2. We remained in camp all
day, repairing our small wagon. The hind axle was
broken. Mr. Frink had seen a wagon abandoned, near the
road at Ash Hollow. He went back with a man to-day, and
took out the bolts and brought the hind axle and wheels
to camp. It was then fitted to the small wagon in place
of the old axle, and did very well. |
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Susan Amelia Cranston, 1851
Saturday
31st (May) started early crossed south fork at the upper ford
which is very good the water did not come over the axel tires
of the wagon here we come up with 12 wagons which crossed the
night before we started ahead of them but they soon overtook
us and drove with us until night when they passed us When
across the river we left the bottom (which was narros) and
ascended the bluffs which were not steep then crossed a high
roling prairie 12 or 13 miles across. The grass was so short
that we did not unhitch the cattle at noon only stopped a few
minutes for them to rest When we come towards the North fork
the bluffs became very steep and stony with deep ravines
between them but the road kept along on a ridge that appeared
forward for the purpose untill we come to a steep hill when
down we found ourselves in what is called Ash hollow which
leads out to the bottom of North fork this hollow is two miles
long and from 15 to 30 rods wide winding around the bluffs
which tower up on either side some times to the highth of 60
feet The road through the hollow was lined with shrubs and
flowers wild roses cow cherries and scrub ash and up on the
blufs small cedars We drove out into the buttom and encamped
near the river grass short
... a general run away and smash up at
Ash-Hollow, a terrific scene. Horses dashing furiously with
the pieces down the hills and precipeces [sic.]the noise, dust
and confusion, the men shouting hallooing, and women
screaming, made an impression on my memory, never to be
effaced. two horses were killed and seven disabled and unfit
for service, in all about $25,000 damage done.
For further information on Ash
Hollow see the following:
Merrill Mattes, THE GREAT PLATTE RIVER ROAD, Chapter
IX: "Ash Hollow, Royal Road to the Platte."
Robert L. Munkres, "Ash Hollow: Gateway to the High
Plains", Annals of Wyoming, April, 1970.
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